Neither east nor west is wrong. East-facing fronts get morning sun and afternoon shade. West-facing fronts take the afternoon sun, which arrives during the hottest hours of an Alabama summer day. But on an undeveloped tract, the driveway, the setback lines, and the septic drain field usually pick the house spot before taste gets a vote. Learn the constraints first, then choose.
This is one of the things we grew up hearing, and it always came up too late, after the pad was cut. You can repaint a house. You cannot spin it a quarter turn.
East for the Sunrise, West for the Afternoon Heat
The old advice is about what time of day you want light in which room. A kitchen window on the east wall gets the sunrise. A front porch on the west gets the sunset, and the day's heat with it.
That second half matters more here. The National Weather Service office in Birmingham describes a typical mid-summer day on its Birmingham area climograph: "the temperature will be nearly 70 degrees at daybreak, approach 90 degrees at mid-day, and level off in the low 90s during the afternoon."
So the sun on your east wall shows up around 70 degrees. The sun on your west wall shows up when it is already in the low 90s. Same sun, different bill.
None of this makes a west-facing front a mistake. Plenty of people want evening light on the porch and are glad to pay for it. It is a consideration nobody mentions until the house is built.
The Sun That Costs You Money Comes In From the Side
The Department of Energy's Building America Solution Center puts a number on it. Its guide on shading and solar control for windows and skylights says that "in the middle of the summer, unshaded east-west windows receive as much as two times more solar heat per square foot than unshaded south-facing windows."
Summer sun rides high overhead at midday and comes in low early and late. A high sun barely gets through a south window. A low sun comes straight in the side of the house.
East and west take about the same amount of that low sun. The difference is the air temperature when it arrives. In Alabama, the load you are fighting most of the year is cooling, not winter heat gain, and afternoon west sun is the part of it you can design around.
The Alabama Cooperative Extension System gives the cheapest fix in 10 ways to conserve energy with plants: "Plant large deciduous shade trees on the southern, southwestern, and western sides of your house." Deciduous trees drop their leaves, so they "block the summer sun but allow full penetration of the winter's warm sun." Extension cites a study where an 8 degree difference between shaded and unshaded walls "was equivalent to a 30% increase in insulation value for the shaded wall."
On a wooded tract you already own those trees. Decide which ones stay before the clearing crew arrives.
Passive Solar Points the Glass South, Not East
Past the folk wisdom, the design question centers on where the glass goes. The front door can point wherever you like.
The Department of Energy's consumer guide to passive solar home design is direct about it. "Windows should face within 30 degrees of true south, and during winter months they should not be shaded from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m." It goes further on room layout: "The windows in living areas should face south, while the windows in bedrooms should face north." For a climate like ours it adds: "use north-facing windows along with generously shaded south-facing windows."
Shading is one of the five elements the guide lists. "Elements such as roof overhangs or trees can be used to shade the window during summer months." An overhang works on a south window because summer sun there is high. The Building America guide calls horizontal overhangs and roof eaves "very effective for south-facing windows." To shade due east and due west glass, it says, "horizontal overhangs may need to be deeper than for south-facing glazing."
The practical version is short. Turn the long axis of the house roughly east to west so one long wall faces south. Give that south wall the windows and an overhang sized for it. Keep the west wall small on glass, or shade it with something other than an eave.
One detail people miss. True south is not where a phone compass needle points. Take the bearing off the survey or the aerial.
The Driveway Reaches the Pad, or the Pad Moves
A house spot you cannot drive to is a picnic table. The driveway is often the first hard constraint on an undeveloped tract, because it has to start where the county allows and climb to your pad at a grade a truck can use.
The county controls the turnout. Shelby County's Highway Department uses a single family residential access permit for work "within the Shelby County Right of Way." The form asks for the parcel identification number, the access surface width, the minimum culvert diameter, and the turnout radii, and the applicant agrees to "construct the turnout according to Shelby County standards."
Slope sets the rest. In Shelby County, of the parcels LandScout rates prime or marginal with slope on record, 79.2 percent average under 8 percent slope. Another 15.4 percent average 8 to 15 percent, and 5.4 percent average 15 percent or steeper, according to the Shelby County numbers as of the September 2026 export. An average is not the frontage. A gentle tract with a steep bank at the road still gives you one place to come in.
If a creek crosses the path, read the flood panel before you plan the culvert, as in how to read a flood zone on Alabama land.
The Drain Field Gets First Pick of the Ground
Where there is no sewer, the septic system takes the best soil on the tract and the house goes where the soil is left. Alabama's onsite sewage rules show why that footprint is bigger than buyers expect.
You need two field areas, not one: the effluent disposal field, or EDF, where the system actually drains, and a backup held in reserve. The rules define that reserve area, the replacement effluent disposal field, as "a minimum defined and documented area, separate and apart from the EDF, set aside to be used in case the EDF has to be replaced." Both carry setbacks. From the rules' separation table, the field stays 5 feet off a property line, 50 feet from surface water, and 100 feet from a well or potable spring. Sites "with a drainage way within 25 feet" of either field are unsuitable, and drains "shall not be filled for the purpose of creating an acceptable EDF."
Grading matters too. Final grading "shall divert surface water around the EDF." So the way your ground drains helps decide which side of the house the field can sit on. As a matter of gravity rather than a state rule, the field normally sits downhill of the tank, and a pump changes that.
The Alabama Department of Public Health's page on whether you can live on a lot says you "will be required to have the soil tested to see if the soil is suitable." Have that done where you want the house, not on the prettiest corner. The rest of that story is in what "the ground won't perk" means.
Setback Lines, and Whether Your Area Is Zoned At All
Setbacks are the last quiet constraint. In Shelby County's A-1 Agricultural district, the zoning regulations require a 40 foot front yard, a 40 foot rear yard, and 20 feet on one side, 50 feet for both sides combined. Add a minimum lot area of 1 acre per family and a minimum lot width of 150 feet. On a narrow tract, that box leaves one orientation.
Zoning does not cover the whole county. The ordinance applies in any beat "in which a majority of the qualified electors vote to accept the zoning authority of the Planning Commission," and never inside a municipality. One tract may have county setbacks, the tract across the line may have none, and a tract inside city limits follows the city's rules. Call the planning office with the parcel number.
Settle It On Paper Before Anyone Cuts a Pad
Walk the spot twice in summer, once around 8 in the morning and once around 5 in the afternoon. Then work the list:
- Find true south off the survey or the aerial, and mark it on the ground.
- Note which way the ground falls and where water leaves after a hard rain.
- Ask the county health department where the field and the reserve area could go.
- Ask the road department where a turnout is allowed, and check the grade to the pad.
- Confirm the setbacks, or confirm there are none.
- Mark the trees on the west and southwest you want kept.
- Ask the utility where the meter would sit, since your line runs from there to wherever the house ends up, a question covered in where the water line ties in.
Pick the house spot last, after the driveway, the setbacks, and the drain field have each had their say, because those three do not move and a floor plan does.
If you want those fields pulled for every tract you are weighing, LandScout's plans are on one page.